Our Expedition on the Restored Rubber Boom Era Boat, the Ayapua
By Bill Grimes

On our latest expedition we chartered the Ayapua, a rubber boom era ship that has been restored to her original glory, and then some. Since the Ayapua’s restoration in 2005 she had been used primarily for research and conservation expeditions. Thank you very much Richard Bodmer and AmazonEco for realizing the historical importance of restoring the Ayapua in the first place, and for allowing Dawn on the Amazon, and our guests, the opportunity to experience your magnificent ship.

The Ayapua is 33 meters long and 6 meters wide. Our 9 guests, two guides, Marmelita and I went aboard and never saw each other again…No just kidding, it’s not that big, but the Dawn on the Amazon group totaled 13 and the crew of the Ayapua totaled 14, including 3 biologists, and a nurse, but we didn’t get in each others way. The goal of the first day’s cruise was used to get well inside the boundary of Allpahuayo Mishana National Reserve. There was a visible improvement in the quality of the rainforest as soon as we entered the reserve, around 5 hours after we cast off. The first night some of us watched the movie Fitzcarraldo. It was filmed in and around Iquitos. Although I have seen Fitzcarraldo half a dozen times, I enjoyed it again. This time I was struck by the similarity of the Ayapua to the rubber boom era boat in Fitzcarraldo. The next morning our guests were given a choice of visiting a village, taking a jungle hike, going fishing, or lounging on the Ayapua. Everyone divided according to they’re interests. Unfortunately I was struck down by the Inca Atahuallpa’s revenge and was relegated to hostage status near the fringe of the boat’s toilets for most of the cruise.

Fortunately, Marmelita guided the three village visits and the three jungle hikes, and my fishing guides, Edson and Bernadino lead the fishermen to four lakes, and fishing the river. Our first hike took 3 hours after a big rain. Our guests learned about medicinal plants, and different types of rainforest. The second hike was to visit a remote community. Our guests bought candy to share, and were surrounded by children. Some bought beers in the local store, some played volleyball with the older kids. I think they loved the children. The third hike was about how the locals plant their gardens and fields, and involved tasting the local produce. The combination of three hikes provided a good opportunity to learn. The water level had gone up several meters in the two weeks prior to our expedition, flooding the lakes and rivers into the rainforest, making fishing difficult. Dave, Edson, Bernadino, Steve, (Steve and Dave being our two most serious fishermen) and were rewarded for their hard work, getting up early, making the most good casts, fishing in the rain, and were the only ones to catch peacock bass. Steve caught a giant fresh water stingray.Bob caught a large black piranha. Jay caught a few catfish. Steve is a licensed fishing guide in the States, so when he told me how the process of catching the giant fresh water sting ray was one of the greatest fishing experiences of his fishing career, that meant something special to me, because that is the kind of result we are trying for here beyond the edge of civilization.

When Steve and my guide Bernadino paddled away from the Ayapua, Steve thought they were going peacock bass fishing, but Bernadino had other ideas. Much to Steve’s amusement, Bernie customized a jungle fishing rig out of Steve’s fancy hooks, lures, and braided line, dug some worms, and positioned the canoe over a flooded sand bar. Soon Steve thought he had hooked a log, but the log took off, and Steve had no idea what was fighting him until the ray surfaced. He released the ray, without even taking a photo, probably against Beradino’s better judgment.

Over all I think this is the story of 9 good friends from Cincinnati, Ohio that have traveled together to Costa Rica, and other destinations, coming to the Peruvian Amazon looking for a little adventure and something different. They brought their own fishing gear, 120 cigars, a couple of bottles of scotch, and a good attitude. We liked these guys. We can’t script these adventures. It is too wild here, things happen. We did the best we could, and they made the best of what they could, and I think we were all fairly happy with the results. If you are interested in joining us on our next expedition please call our office overlooking the river, on the corner of the first block of Nauta, #185 Maldonado or check out our website at:www.dawnontheamazon.com


Article copyright © 2009 Dawn on the Amazon.
Used by permission



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