(First Published: May 2004)
Looking for a relaxing, different day in Iquitos? Try Puerto Bellavista Nanay (or Port Bellavista Nanay), a small village on the River Nanay. It costs about 2.5 soles and a it's a 10 minute moto-taxi
ride heading north from the Plaza de Armas. Of course, bargain hard for that price. Maybe choose a newer moto-taxi as the seats are softer in these. (Puerto Masusa is before Bellavista and is the major commercial port)
Here you are away from the hub of Iquitos where most tourists spent their time. Life is simple and poor in this area. But the friendliness of these people is amazing. This of course applies to all of Iquitos, which is why so many people keep returning.
At Puerto Bellavista Nanay you will find a large colourful Plaza, an amazing variety of fresh fish constantly being grilled by the locals. If you are lucky, maybe you could try a Piranha. There are also several amazing pole house bar/restaurants close by. Maybe have cold beer here overlooking the floating houses on the Nanay River and watch the world go by.
In Puerto Bellavista, you will probably first be approached by the local tour boat operators. They offer several choices of river tours which join up to the Amazon River. You can either hire a speed boat or a canoe and visit the Bora's and Yagua's native communities. Other options include, indigenous dancing, local food, small museums, fishing, family pets (These family pets include tame baby pumas, several monkeys, anacondas and other native animals), etc. The indigenous dancers usually ask for a small tip and usually allow you to join in. During June November (the low water season) the locals swim at the nearby beaches. Just watch out for water bombs!
Later you can wander through the maze of grilled fish and other niceties and then select your feast. Surprisingly the prices are not negiotable here (rare in Peru), but still very cheap. This is really a type of open fish/fruit market, where the locals come for family outings etc. Various other local side dishes are available, which are very tasty. Enjoy the aromas and daily activities of the locals while you are eating away.
Across the dirt road, you will see numerous pole house bar/restaurants. These are raised 10/12 meters above the water and completely hand built out of wood. They each have amazing large balconies overlooking the port where you can view families living in their floating houses, the Nanay River and all its daily activities. These floating houses rise and fall with the river which can vary as much as 10 meters. In the dry season these houses are on the dry river bed, but during the wet season these people move about from floating house to house or to the land in their dug out canoes as they have done for centuries. There is also a floating petrol station, workshops, grocery stores etc. Unfortunately there is a bit of rubbish here, but the locals just laugh because when the water recedes, the rubbish floats off to Brazil! Its rare to see tourists here, which of course makes it even more enjoyable.
The Iquitos Hunting and Fishing Club is here also. Longer river excursions are available here. It has a huge clubhouse with a convention room, restaurant, bar, enclosed river swimming pool, etc.
Back down the street are a variety of stores selling food and all types of nick nacks. You may have to wake up the shopkeeper here or sit with him in another rocking chair. Peruvian people just love to relax and are renouned for their willingness to chat to foreigners
