A Life-time Experience By Lee Alexander Durham, New Hampshire USA Not everyone who travels to Iquitos from the United States primarily comes to see the Amazon rainforest. The main purpose of my visit was to attend an international conference about improving the safety-of-navigation on the Amazon River. Unfortunately, I only had one day to see the Amazon rainforest. However, I was very lucky to meet a local tour guide who quickly understood my situation, was receptive to my interests, and was flexible in making arrangements. Andres Pena of Amazon Wilderness Expeditions arranged a one-day trip that I will remember as a life-time experience. I probably do not fit the mold of an average tourist. First of all, I tend to avoid joining organized tour groups. It is not that I am anti-social. Instead, I am more interested in meeting local people than spending most of the day talking to other tourists. Second, as a university professor, I have some knowledge and experience in leading field trips in the forested and coastal ecosystems of North America. But, this was my first trip to the Amazon region of Peru in South America. Even though I only had one day, I was anxious to see as much as possible. More than seeing first-hand native plants and animals of the Peruvian Amazon region, I also wanted to meet some of the people who live and work there. When Andres said that he wanted to pick me up at my hotel at 7:00am, I told him that this was fine with me. I am an early riser and I was anxious to get started on what turned out to be a very full day-trip. Travel itinerary: - Drive by taxi (a car) from Iquitos to Nauta (approximately 100km) along the region’s only major highway. Whenever I would ask, both Andres and the taxi driver would explain about the geography, landscape and people who live along the highway. I had lots of questions, and they were more than willing to answer them. - After arriving in Nauta, we paid a short visit to the main market. There was lots of buying and selling activity going on. For many people of the region, breakfast is a main meal of the day. As such, the main market was filled with families having sit-down meal of fried fish, rice and fresh fruit juice. Also, it was interesting seeing the wide variety of local produce and commerce come into Nauta via river boats. - From Nauta, we then boarded a 10m wooden boat and traveled down the Rio Maranon to where it joins with the Rio Ucayali to form the mighty Rio Amazon. You really cannot fully appreciate the Rio Amazon unless you travel on it by small boat. With strong currents, and ever changing water levels, it is almost like a living organism. During the one-hour hour transit, we saw a many different types of birds, as well as both grey and pink dolphins. Andres also pointed out about where people live or re-locate along the river during the dry season to raise crops. The Rio Amazon is not only the main means of transportation, it is also the region’s life-blood. - We then arrived at a small village called Castilla. Everyone in the village knew Andreas. I later learned that the Emerald Forest Camp and jungle tour guide business provides employment to a number of persons who live in the village (boatmen, livery boys, cooks, construction crew, etc.). After being greeted by local villagers we walked by foot approximately 1km to the Rio Yarapa. This time, we went onboard dugout canoes and transited approximately 15km up the Rio Yarapa. Unlike the muddy brown Rio Amazon, the water of the Rio Yarapa is clear, and the colour of dark tea. Traveling by small boat close to the riverbank provided an opportunity to see many varieties of plants and animals that I had only seen in books or on film. While I knew some, Andres knew the names of almost all of them. - The final leg of the trip was by an even smaller dug-out canoe. But this time, we traveled across two small lakes (Lago Lupuna and Lago Yarina). - Our final destination was Emerald Forest Camp on shore of Lago Yarina. Situated on a level plateau approximately 50m up from the lake, the Camp is made up of a main lodge, kitchen and dining area, and individual sleeping quarters. Build by local people, using native materials (raised wooden posts, thatched roofs, etc.), the camp is both comfortable and practical. - This was a great location, with lots to see and explore nearby. There are many things that visitors can do at the Emerald Forest Camp including bird watching, fishing, canoeing, and. hiking. You can even take a “survival course” where you learn how to live-off-the-land. However, I only had a chance to spend a few hours exploring the area near the Camp. But, there was plenty to see in a just short time: - visited protected, unspoiled areas that are part of Nature Preserve - walked on jungle trail where enormous, towering rubber trees were located - saw local wildlife that have decided that the Camp is a good place to hang out, including “Poncho” the tapir and “Biena” the spider monkey A heavy rain shower that lasted about one hour made me appreciate what a “rain forest” is all about. But, after ending, the air cleared and we saw blue sky for the first time that week. During the return trip on way back to Iquitos, I had some wonderful experiences and memories: - Watching a football match in Castilla on Saturday afternoon with almost everyone one in the village present. - Andres listening to concerns of local villagers regarding wildlife coming from the nature preserve and eating some of their crops. - A magical ride by boat up the Rio Amazon back to Nauta . It was a transition from late afternoon, to spectacular sunset, and later a black sky filled with stars. What was also fascinating to watch was the knowledge and skill of the boatman who piloted the boat back to Nauta in almost pitch-black darkness. At all times, he knew which side of the river was the safest, and where the current flow was the slowest. Once we got back to Nauta, the same taxi diver who drove us earlier in the day met us. When we finally got back to Iquitos at 8:30pm, I was tired but very happy about all I had seen and experienced. It is not a question of if I will go back to the Emerald Forest Camp ...only when. The type of experience I had with Andres and his crew was just right. I was made to feel as a guest, not a customer. But, next time I will make sure there is time to spend 3-4 days at the Emerald Forest Camp so I can get to know and explore the Amazon Jungle. I also hope to bring my wife, and other family and friends who want to see and experience both the nature and people of the Amazon basin.